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How to Know Which Question You Are Really Asking
Feeling stressed, sleep deprived, and fed up with noise coming through the walls is one of the most common reasons people consider moving house. But moving is expensive, disruptive, and in many cases completely unnecessary.
The answer to whether you should soundproof or move almost always comes down to your property type and construction. Some homes are straightforward to soundproof and deliver transformational results. Others have so many noise paths that even a thorough installation cannot fully solve the problem.
This guide goes through the most common UK property types, what you can realistically achieve with soundproofing in each one, and when moving actually makes more sense. If you want to talk through your specific situation, booking your FREE noise diagnosis call is the best starting point.
1930s Terraced Properties
1930s terraced homes are among the most soundproofable properties in the UK. The solid brick construction and traditional materials mean flanking noise transmission is usually minimal, so the noise you are hearing tends to come mainly from the direct noise path of the party wall rather than spreading through every wall in the house.
A 50mm wall system installed to both separating party walls, combined with treating the chimney stack, fireback, and tucking the system up and down into the floor and ceiling voids, can achieve around a 65% human perceived reduction in airborne noise.
A few things to check first:
- Put your finger in one ear and press the other to the window wall while the neighbours are making noise. If you barely hear anything there, your flanking transmission is low and you are in a good position
- If the property has been renovated with dot and dab plasterboard at any point, that changes things and needs to be factored in
- Always check the suspended floor void and ceiling void for holes in the structure before starting any installation
Verdict: Soundproof. These properties respond well and the investment is very worthwhile.
1950s Semi-Detached with Concrete Floors
1950s semis, sometimes called ex-council properties, are also very soundproofable. You can achieve a 70 to 80% human perceived reduction in noise on these homes, but you do need to treat the flanking walls properly, not just the party wall.
The walls perpendicular to the party wall, including the window wall and the wall separating the front and back bedrooms, all need sound insulation. The ceiling also needs mass added to it.
One thing to note: the concrete floor on these properties does transmit vibration. Door banging, washing machine vibration, and similar impact noise can still come through the concrete slab even after a thorough installation. You will not fully eliminate it, but a heavy duty carpet and underlay on the ground floor takes the edge off significantly.
If there are kids running around in the room diagonally above making impact noise that comes down at an angle, that can be one of the harder things to address. A considerable system to the lounge ceiling helps, but it does take more work than the walls alone.
Verdict: Soundproof. These properties respond well. Go in with realistic expectations on impact noise through the concrete slab and you will not be disappointed.
1950/1960s Semi-Detached with Suspended Floors
1950s/1960s semis with suspended timber floors are one of the most common property types Quietco deals with. These homes can achieve a significant reduction in noise but require the most thorough treatment because the suspended floor void acts as an amplifier.
The hollow void beneath the floorboards picks up noise from the neighbours’ side, resonates, and radiates it back up into the room. Until that void is treated and the joists are disconnected from the party wall, no amount of wall soundproofing alone will get you the result you are looking for. Read more about the full approach on the party wall soundproofing page.
Every step of Quietco’s 4-step soundproofing method applies here and this is a property type where following all four steps properly makes the difference between a transformational result and a disappointing one.
Verdict: Soundproof, but commit to the full treatment. Partial fixes on 1950s/1960s semis are where most people get let down.
Not sure where to start with your 1960s property? Fill out the contact form to book your FREE noise diagnosis call and our team will talk you through exactly what your home needs.
1980s Properties
1980s properties sit in a tricky middle ground. They often have a mix of older solid construction and newer building techniques like hollow stud walls and early use of lightweight blocks.
Bay windows with RSJ steel beams are very common on this era of property and those RSJs are a significant noise path that many homeowners and installers completely miss. The RSJ needs to be sound deadened with a visco-elastic membrane before the surrounding wall system goes on.
Hollow stud walls perpendicular to the party wall also need to be opened up, insulated, and closed off properly. If you leave those resonating, the noise will keep finding its way into the room through them regardless of how well the party wall is treated.
Verdict: Soundproof, but make sure every noise path including the RSJ and any hollow stud walls is accounted for. A consultation before starting is strongly recommended on this era of property.
New Build Properties
New builds are the most challenging to soundproof and require the most honest conversation about expectations before starting.
The construction techniques used in new builds amplify noise from the structure before it even reaches your room. Dot and dab plasterboard on every block wall, lightweight aerated concrete blocks on the external walls, hollow ceiling voids, chipboard floors, and hollow stud walls all contribute. The noise your neighbours make enters the structure and gets amplified by every one of those hollow voids before it reaches you.
The realistic approach for a new build is to choose one room and do it properly rather than trying to treat the whole house. A full installation to a lounge including the stairwell and adjacent rooms can achieve an 80% reduction in airborne noise and a 65% reduction in impact noise.
However, if the main noise you are suffering from is heavy impact noise coming down at an angle from the room diagonally above, such as kids running around or furniture moving in the upstairs bedroom next door, that is a much harder problem to fix in a new build and worth being realistic about before committing to an installation. Learn more about soundproofing new builds in our recent blog article.
Verdict: Soundproof one room well. If airborne noise is your main problem, the result can be transformational. If it is purely severe impact noise from diagonally above, consider the cost carefully before committing.
Detached Properties
A lot of people assume a detached property means no noise problems. In reality, around 40% of Quietco’s enquiries come from detached homeowners. Road traffic noise, aircraft noise, dogs barking in adjacent gardens, kids in the alleyway between properties, and room to room noise transfer within heavily renovated homes are all common complaints.
Heavily Renovated Detached Properties
A detached property that has been gutted back to brickwork and renovated with modern techniques, dot and dab everywhere, new hollow stud walls, recessed downlighters, flat roof extensions, presents a very similar challenge to a new build. The number of noise paths that would need treating to get a meaningful result on room to room noise transfer makes a full installation impractical and extremely costly.
Verdict: Case by case. Road traffic and aircraft noise in a detached home is very solvable. Room to room noise in a heavily modernised detached property may not be feasible to fully resolve and moving could genuinely be the better option.
When Moving Is the Better Option
Soundproofing is not always the right answer. Here is when moving makes more sense:
- The noise is constant and severe, such as a dog barking for hours, heavy low frequency bass at antisocial hours, or neighbours who simply refuse to moderate their behaviour
- The cost of treating all the noise paths in your property far exceeds the cost of moving
- You have a heavily modernised detached property or a SIPs construction property where the number of noise paths makes a thorough installation impractical
As Jim puts it after soundproofing thousands of UK homes over 20 years, the goal is always to help you stay in the home you love. But if the honest answer is that moving is cheaper and more realistic given your situation, that is worth knowing before you spend the money.
For more property types and details watch the full video here:
According to the some studies, noisy neighbours are one of the most common sources of stress for UK homeowners. Getting the right advice early, before committing to either option, saves both money and frustration.
If you are unsure where your property sits, fill out the contact form to book your FREE noise diagnosis call to talk through your situation.
FAQ
Can soundproofing fully eliminate neighbour noise?
In most cases a thorough installation reduces airborne noise by 65 to 80% depending on the property type. Most homeowners describe the result as transformational. Some residual impact noise may still be faintly audible in complete silence but will not disturb your evening or affect your sleep.
Is it worth soundproofing a rented property?
Generally not, unless your landlord is willing to fund or approve the work. A full installation requires opening walls, floors, and ceilings. It is a major structural project and not appropriate for a rented home without landlord involvement.
How do I know if I have holes in my structure?
If you can hear your neighbours’ TV clearly, make out individual words, or even hear the person they are speaking to on the phone, that is a strong signal you have holes in the structure. You will find them in the suspended floor void and above the ceiling plasterboard. Until those are bricked up, no wall system will give you the result you are looking for.
What is the cheapest way to reduce neighbour noise?
The most cost effective first steps are to identify and seal any holes in the structure, add a heavy duty carpet and thick underlay, and hang thick curtains. These will not replace a proper installation but can take the edge off while you plan the full solution.
How much does professional soundproofing cost in the UK?
It varies significantly by property type and the number of noise paths involved. A single room in an older terrace can be far more affordable than a new build where adjacent rooms also need treating. Contact Quietco for a consultation and realistic cost estimate for your specific situation.
